by Jeff Ekstrand

Over the years, Craig and I have done very well chasing walleyes on the deep, natural lakes of northern Wisconsin. But this year, the season had been moving on without us. After daily life had spoiled our plans again and again, we finally got an opportunity to share some time in the boat. But now that we have this precious time, how can we make the most of it? Ideally, we'd like to know where the fish are and how we can catch them? But to find the answer to the "big" question, we must first ask ourselves a series of smaller questions. Some have obvious answers, others require a bit more observation and analysis. On this day, it went a little something like this:
Where? Northern Wisconsin.
When? The calendar said July 1, but when considering the kind of spring we'd had so far we both agreed that it was cooler than normal and the lakes were behind in their seasonal development.
What kind of water are we fishing?This is a deep, rocky, sandy, clear, natural lake.
How clear is the water? Approximately 10' feet of visibility.
What is the current weather? Light wind and sunny skies.
What is the time of day? Early to mid-morning. The sun's already over the trees.
What's the main forage? From DNR surveys we knew this lake had a good population of perch and lake shiners.
So, July 1st in northern Wisconsin means we should be into summer patterns, but with a cooler than normal spring, and a deep, clear lake, it's likely these fish haven't settled in to deep water summer patterns yet. And since we would be fishing during the day with light wind and sunny skies, we could probably also count out shallow water. Let me explain briefly: our definition of shallow water is relative to the water's general clarity plus the current light conditions. Basically, if you can see bottom, it's shallow. So shallow might be 2' in a dark lake or 18' in a clear lake. If it's a windy and/or cloudy day, the clear lake might have it's visibility cut down to only 9 feet which would change it's "shallow" status. All of this comes down to finding a depth/area that is beneficial for walleyes to feed efficiently. Since this lake's water clarity was about 10' on this morning, we decided to rule out water shallower than this to find some catchable walleye. Considering all this, it's more likely that transitional areas (where spring (shallow) areas meet summer (deep) areas) would be our best bet. Now we consider our cover options in these areas. What would concentrate walleyes on the move from spring to summer haunts? Weeds can hold fish all year, especially the deepest thick stuff you can find, but early summer is when they're at their best in lakes. Plus, in spring, shiners spawn on sand and perch prefer new weeds coming up through sandy/silty bottoms. If emerging weed beds are sufficient, the perch will move right into those after spawning as will the shiners. Give a lake a few weeks for the weed beds to grow after the spawn and you can bet that they'll be full of prey fish such as perch and shiners, followed by predators like walleyes. But many contour maps (especially older ones) really don't indicate areas where weeds grow. Here's a quick tip for you: in hard bottom, clear lakes, like the one we're on, check the map for wide contour lines in the 8 to 20' range on inside turns. Pay careful attention to bays since they form the largest inside turns and tend to collect silt (fertilizer) on the bottom to promote weed growth. The opposite of a turn is a point or hump and these tend to be the least likely to support weeds in sand/rock bottom lakes.
Once on the water, we cruised to the windward side of the lake to a bay with deep water (30+') butting up to it. The map showed wide contour lines in depths of 10 to 15' right in the corner of the bay, indicating a likely weed flat. We criss-crossed the area a few times with the sonar, and found a lot of 4' tall weeds (a mixture of cabbage and coontail) through the back of the bay, and then found an 80 by 80 yard flat, 15' deep with weeds all across the top, protruding from the corner of the bay. Our electronics didn't reveal much for "full-sized" fish, but we found plenty of bait along the base of the weeds/drop-off in 16 to 20'. If it were a cloudy or really windy day we might have been discouraged at the lack of larger fish on the sonar, but because of the sun and lack of wind, it's typical that the fish might be tucked into the weeds a bit. We chose to start fishing on the side of the flat with the most baitfish, near an area where a nice cut of deeper water ran nearby.
Now that we've determined where to find them, the question is how to catch them?
Wisconsin anglers have varying opinions on their DNR but one point they agree upon is the ability to fish with three separate lines during summer and winter. Three lines is especially important for walleye fishing, and changes the way we approach our presentation. A lot of different presentations will work for weed walleyes, but typically the decision is dictated by water clarity and fish activity levels. Our choice on this day (and actually most days for Wisconsin weed walleyes) would be slip bobbers and leeches. If only one line were allowed, an argument could be made for casting light jig/leech combos, or maybe pulling crawler harnesses across the weeds but because the area was relatively small and two fishermen properly anchored means six lines working the area, slip bobbers got the nod. Why leeches you ask? That's a good question and a bit of a mystery. Generally, minnows work great during the colder weather months or in lakes where there is not a large crop of bait (minnows). But in summer when lakes are booming with bait, another minnow down there just doesn't seem to work as well. I realize that there are exceptions of course, and I'm just basing this on my personal experience. But also, leeches are usually cheaper, stay on the hook longer, and pack in a neat little cup in the cooler. Case closed!
Now, before we get to tackle rigging, we need to discuss proper anchoring. As Craig will tell you, I am a fairly unorganized person. I'm the guy with the 4-week build up of lures tucked in every out-of-the-way spot in my boat, but anchoring is a meticulous science to me. I could write an entire essay on this topic but I'll keep it to the important points for this situation. Two anchors, one at each end of the boat, keep it from swaying in the wind. Bobbers near the boat in clear water rarely get bit so plan on positioning a minimum of 30' from fish, and better to make it 40'. It's also best to anchor with the wind blowing across the boat from the side rather than having it at your back. I know it's tempting to be anchored directly up wind from your spot but it's hard to predict the exact position of weed fish since you won't see most of them on the sonar. Position the boat with more of a side wind to allow drifting the baits across the weed tops. Basically, you want to be able to cast up wind and let your baits sweep down wind across the weeds Your bobbers should always be slowly on the move. For my 18 foot boat I have a 30lb anchor on the front and an 18lb on the back with enough rope (100 feet) to allow for anchoring to depths of about 35 feet in wind. It's not that I'm fishing that deep, but sometimes the boat is positioned over deep water and we're fishing shallower. Hopefully, I've impressed upon you how important boat position and anchoring can be.

Our slip bobber rigging consists of the knot, bead, and bobber like every other set up with our own special twist on the weight and hook. The bobber is made of a two inch piece of balsa and my color of preference is orange. I find orange is a little easier to see in most light conditions than yellow. At first glance a bobber with a two inch float body seems awfully big for a leech, and it is. Go ahead and rig a dainty bobber with a couple of split shots and a leech, and try and make a 90 foot cast (which you can't). See if the line feeds properly through the bobber down to depths of 15 feet or more (it won't). The larger float allows us to slide a 3/8 ounce barrel sinker below the bobber on 8 pound test monofilament or braid (not fluorocarbon, it sinks- very bad for the bobber main line) before tying on a swivel. Attached to the swivel is five feet of 4-6 pound fluorocarbon, and tied to the very end is a size 6 hook for leeches (larger if you decide to use minnows). I prefer aberdeen style hooks since they bend fairly easy when fishing around hard cover, but since we're just talking weeds, I'd pick an octopus style, or as Craig has recently turned me on to, a kahle hook. Don't go with a circle hook. They work wonderfully well for some fish, but not walleye. Also, I usually add a small 3/0 split shot about a foot above the hook. This setup allows the angler: long casts; a rig that slides through the bobber quickly to get back down to the fish; a swivel that allows the leech to spin on the cast and on the descent yet doesn't twist the line; a fluorocarbon leader that's hard to see and is resistant to teeth (plus, it's lighter than the main line so it will break when snagged and you won't lose the entire set up). Another benefit to this rig is that you will never have to untie your leech ever again. If you've fished leeches before, you know how the leech ties itself into a nasty knot around your hook and line and usually causes you to cut off the bottom six inches of line and retie. If your swivel does its job, this will not happen any longer (If it does happen, change your swivel!). Also, some guys like jigs rather than plain hooks which I'm fine with as long as they're 1/16 ounce or smaller. You'll get a lot more "drops" with a jig larger than this. Lastly, we primarily use 8-1/2' rods- they cast farther, set hooks easier and fight fish better than shorter rods, period.

Now that you can picture our setup, here is how we fish them. Craig and I have fished together a lot and have a system for bobbers that can be used anytime you're fishing two or more lines but really shines with four or more. Like a troller working open water, each line represents the tooth on a comb that is meant to contact new water and different fish. If we're working a large weed flat off one side of the boat, as we were on this day, we start by placing baits on the upwind side of the flat at 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 80' distances from the boat. As they sweep down wind across the flat, we shift the rods down the boat and whenever a line makes it down wind so that it's past the "spot" we reel it in, hand it to whichever one of us is at the upwind side and he repositions it to fill the gap in our "comb". This addresses line placement but it doesn't address the depth of our leech. I've found that a good starting point is two feet above the tops of the weeds. Pay attention to the sonar as you motor over the weed bed and notice the depth of the weed tops. Next, use the length of your rod as a measuring stick for setting the bobber stop. The temptation when setting slip bobber depths is to place the leech right at the level of the fish. I understand the temptation, but we've learned through the years that they almost always prefer a bait 2 to 3' above them.If you do find that they want the bait right in their face, this is usually a good indication that you'll probably do better with a light jig, casting and keeping it right near the bottom.
As you can see, this is not just the stereotype of casting out bobbers and waiting. This is very active fishing, especially when it's windy and the baits are moving through areas quickly. Pay close attention to the rigs when they initially hit the water to make sure the line is clearly running through the bobber and that it's floating correctly. When fish are biting pay close attention to their position as you will often make contact with a school and catch several before they move on or stop biting. Also, resist the urge to put all your lines on the school. Two or three is enough and lets you utilize the other lines for searching out more fish. And obviously, we don't have our "own" rods in this program. We share our lines and take turns reeling in fish. On this particular day things went well and we ended up with 17 beautiful walleyes in the 4-1/2 hours we fished that morning. When the wind blew they bit more aggressively and when it died down to almost calm we struggled. We probably would have doubled our total had it been a breezy or overcast day, but this way the lake left us wanting. This August, Craig and I have plans to get on some open-water, summer pattern, beasts! More to come.
Jeff Ekstrand
Keep Fishing Forward!
